Clays 101...or there's more to masking than the Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay
Does anyone else adore the Aztec Secret Indian Healing Clay (ASIHC from here on)? Me too! It's what got me into the world of near daily masking. It's cheap as chips and amazing at what it does. Plus the pulsating sensation is super satisfying. It feels like it's hoovering out all of the impurities that are giving you grief.
For ages, I lusted after NIOD's Flavanone Mask and one of the things I did before biting the bullet and buying it was research the different muds in it. It opened up a whole new world of DIY masks for me that I'm going to share with you. Below you'll find information on three different clay masks that I've been using for a while. I've got two more types of clay arriving in the post today, so they'll be added in a Clays 102 at some point.
Bentonite
You know how I opened the blog post by confessing my love affair with ASIHC? Well, I've never actually bought it. In fact, I hadn't used it until nicking some of my sister's last Easter and that was only once. I have bought and used bentonite clay, specifically calcium bentonite, for over a year now and that is all the ASIHC is. As cheap as ASIHC is, plain, unbranded bentonite is identical and just as cheap.
The standard instruction for a ASIHC mask is to mix it with either water or organic apple cider vinegar (ACV) to form a paste, slather it on your face, let it dry, then rinse it off and pray it doesn't clog your sink.
The powder itself is fairly basic (as in 7+ on the pH scale) and when mixed with an acid, like ACV, will bubble a bit, kind of like baking soda and vinegar. This bubbling, I've found makes it easier to blend into a smooth paste. I'm cheap and use regular ACV, put a couple of spoonfuls of bentonite in a small glass bowl, and mix it with a silicon pastry brush I got from IKEA. (Side note: This brush is my favourite mask mixing tool. I do a combination of stirring and mashing with it and it blends masks into a smoother consistency than anything else I've tried. For thicker masks, I also use it to apply the mask to my face.) I tried using water exactly one time and was unable to get a smooth mask from it.
When I'm feeling fancy, I will mix in either turmeric powder (a small spoonful) or crushed aspirin (don't do this if you have any medical issues that may make you sensitive to aspirin, do all of your own research with regards to what quantity of aspirin is appropriate for your skin). The turmeric is meant to have a brightening effect, but I've not found this to be the case. It mostly just stains things yellow. Aspirin is an anti-inflammatory and chemically similar to salicylic acid. I have found it incredibly soothing if my face is really red.
One of the claims of ASIHC is that it has a negative electron charge and toxins in the skin have a positive charge, so it is able to suck them out of the skin and detox your skin. I'm weary of anything that claims to detox your skin, but, looking at the other uses of bentonite (including, but not limited to, clarifying oils, wines, beers, etc.; absorbing oils; treating poison ivy and oak ), it actually makes a lot of sense and I'm prone to believe that it does actually do something with regards to impurities on the surface of your skin beyond just the fact that clay masks tend to dry skin a bit, which is good for many of us.
Because of the negative electron charge, you're not meant to use metallic spoons, bowls, etc. whilst preparing the mask. I have used a metal spoon and didn't notice any difference, but I now have a plastic measuring spoon that lives with my masking gear and would recommend you consider the same.
On the whole, bentonite is a really good mask to start with. The internet loves it and there are loads of before and after videos which are fun to watch while you're masking.
Fuller's Earth
Fuller's earth was my second clay and it was purchased by mistake. I thought it was the same as bentonite and in some places calcium bentonite is called fuller's earth. I've done a fair amount of research since and they are different, but how is a bit unclear. Fuller's earth does seem to have a higher mineral content and is better at absorbing oils.
When I use it, it mixes to the same consistency as bentonite, working well with ACV, but not with water. It's a bit darker, but who cares? The biggest difference I've found it is makes my eyes water like hell when I use it. This should stop me from using it, but it doesn't. I just mix it with kaolin.
I don't know if I just got a bad batch, but would love to know if other people have had similar reactions. I recommend bentonite without reservation, but can't do the same with fuller's earth.
Kaolin
If you want to feel fancy, kaolin is where it's at–it's what porcelain is made out of. It's a much finer powder than bentonite or fuller's earth and pure white and also blends with liquids a lot easier. Bentonite and fuller's earth both have majorly absorbing properties which is what makes them great for masking (and also kitty litter!), but kaolin is a bit less absorbent, so less liquid is needed. In fact, I ended up purchasing a pipette in order to better control the quantity of liquid I add because I kept adding too much!
My favourite liquid to add with kaolin is rose water. This is mostly because of the smell, but also because it is meant to help with redness. I've also used water before, but I've not felt the need to go down the vinegar route because it mixes with more neutral pH liquids so nicely.
Along with being a finer powder and mixing more easily with water, kaolin also differs from bentonite and fuller's earth in the consistency of the mud in makes. Whereas I use my silicone basting brush to apply bentonite or fuller's earth masks, I use the fan brush that I got when I was doing GA peels to mix and apply kaolin masks.
Once mixed, it feels like the slip I used to use in art class to adhere clay to itself, which I suppose makes sense. It feels super luxe going on the skin and is easily my favourite of the three clays discussed today. As it dries, there is a much gentler pulsating sensation. If you've ever found ASIHC too harsh, give kaolin a go.
If I only had to pick one clay to use forever, hands down it would be kaolin. This is useful because if you start reading ingredients for commercially made masks, it's usually the mud that's used. Thankfully, I don't have to pick just one mud and today I will be getting some French green clay and some rhassoul clay in the post. My plan is to take them to the States with me (leaving in two days, staying for three weeks!) and to review them when I get home in Clays 102.
Do you make your own clay masks? Share your favourite clay, liquid, and mix-ins in the comments!
For ages, I lusted after NIOD's Flavanone Mask and one of the things I did before biting the bullet and buying it was research the different muds in it. It opened up a whole new world of DIY masks for me that I'm going to share with you. Below you'll find information on three different clay masks that I've been using for a while. I've got two more types of clay arriving in the post today, so they'll be added in a Clays 102 at some point.
Bentonite
You know how I opened the blog post by confessing my love affair with ASIHC? Well, I've never actually bought it. In fact, I hadn't used it until nicking some of my sister's last Easter and that was only once. I have bought and used bentonite clay, specifically calcium bentonite, for over a year now and that is all the ASIHC is. As cheap as ASIHC is, plain, unbranded bentonite is identical and just as cheap.
The standard instruction for a ASIHC mask is to mix it with either water or organic apple cider vinegar (ACV) to form a paste, slather it on your face, let it dry, then rinse it off and pray it doesn't clog your sink.
The powder itself is fairly basic (as in 7+ on the pH scale) and when mixed with an acid, like ACV, will bubble a bit, kind of like baking soda and vinegar. This bubbling, I've found makes it easier to blend into a smooth paste. I'm cheap and use regular ACV, put a couple of spoonfuls of bentonite in a small glass bowl, and mix it with a silicon pastry brush I got from IKEA. (Side note: This brush is my favourite mask mixing tool. I do a combination of stirring and mashing with it and it blends masks into a smoother consistency than anything else I've tried. For thicker masks, I also use it to apply the mask to my face.) I tried using water exactly one time and was unable to get a smooth mask from it.
When I'm feeling fancy, I will mix in either turmeric powder (a small spoonful) or crushed aspirin (don't do this if you have any medical issues that may make you sensitive to aspirin, do all of your own research with regards to what quantity of aspirin is appropriate for your skin). The turmeric is meant to have a brightening effect, but I've not found this to be the case. It mostly just stains things yellow. Aspirin is an anti-inflammatory and chemically similar to salicylic acid. I have found it incredibly soothing if my face is really red.
One of the claims of ASIHC is that it has a negative electron charge and toxins in the skin have a positive charge, so it is able to suck them out of the skin and detox your skin. I'm weary of anything that claims to detox your skin, but, looking at the other uses of bentonite (including, but not limited to, clarifying oils, wines, beers, etc.; absorbing oils; treating poison ivy and oak ), it actually makes a lot of sense and I'm prone to believe that it does actually do something with regards to impurities on the surface of your skin beyond just the fact that clay masks tend to dry skin a bit, which is good for many of us.
Because of the negative electron charge, you're not meant to use metallic spoons, bowls, etc. whilst preparing the mask. I have used a metal spoon and didn't notice any difference, but I now have a plastic measuring spoon that lives with my masking gear and would recommend you consider the same.
On the whole, bentonite is a really good mask to start with. The internet loves it and there are loads of before and after videos which are fun to watch while you're masking.
Fuller's Earth
Fuller's earth was my second clay and it was purchased by mistake. I thought it was the same as bentonite and in some places calcium bentonite is called fuller's earth. I've done a fair amount of research since and they are different, but how is a bit unclear. Fuller's earth does seem to have a higher mineral content and is better at absorbing oils.
When I use it, it mixes to the same consistency as bentonite, working well with ACV, but not with water. It's a bit darker, but who cares? The biggest difference I've found it is makes my eyes water like hell when I use it. This should stop me from using it, but it doesn't. I just mix it with kaolin.
I don't know if I just got a bad batch, but would love to know if other people have had similar reactions. I recommend bentonite without reservation, but can't do the same with fuller's earth.
Kaolin
If you want to feel fancy, kaolin is where it's at–it's what porcelain is made out of. It's a much finer powder than bentonite or fuller's earth and pure white and also blends with liquids a lot easier. Bentonite and fuller's earth both have majorly absorbing properties which is what makes them great for masking (and also kitty litter!), but kaolin is a bit less absorbent, so less liquid is needed. In fact, I ended up purchasing a pipette in order to better control the quantity of liquid I add because I kept adding too much!
My favourite liquid to add with kaolin is rose water. This is mostly because of the smell, but also because it is meant to help with redness. I've also used water before, but I've not felt the need to go down the vinegar route because it mixes with more neutral pH liquids so nicely.
Along with being a finer powder and mixing more easily with water, kaolin also differs from bentonite and fuller's earth in the consistency of the mud in makes. Whereas I use my silicone basting brush to apply bentonite or fuller's earth masks, I use the fan brush that I got when I was doing GA peels to mix and apply kaolin masks.
Once mixed, it feels like the slip I used to use in art class to adhere clay to itself, which I suppose makes sense. It feels super luxe going on the skin and is easily my favourite of the three clays discussed today. As it dries, there is a much gentler pulsating sensation. If you've ever found ASIHC too harsh, give kaolin a go.
If I only had to pick one clay to use forever, hands down it would be kaolin. This is useful because if you start reading ingredients for commercially made masks, it's usually the mud that's used. Thankfully, I don't have to pick just one mud and today I will be getting some French green clay and some rhassoul clay in the post. My plan is to take them to the States with me (leaving in two days, staying for three weeks!) and to review them when I get home in Clays 102.
Do you make your own clay masks? Share your favourite clay, liquid, and mix-ins in the comments!
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